What’s In A Mane?
Magic exists. We see it all around us every single day, and sometimes once the veil is lifted, we understand just how accessible it is. I’m talking about faux locks baby! Wigs! Extensions! Volumizers! Toppers! “If the men figure out we can shapeshift …” that’s the energy we are after in this post.
So what even IS in a mane? Most extensions and hairpieces (including wigs, wiglets and toppers) are classified in a few categories of hair quality: usually labeled as Yaki, Keratin, or Remy. Technologies in the artificial fiber field have garnered many heat-friendly textiles that are also marketed as an affordable option. Allow me to demystify a few of the most common choices:
1.) Yaki “Human” Hair
Okay y’all, this was my first foray into the world of extensions. Well, technically the first experience I had where I UNDERSTOOD what I was buying 😂😂😂. Yaki hair is the lowest quality hair available and is somehow allowed to be sold as human hair because it technically does perform like human hair does, and even matches some natural textures well. It is also incredibly affordable, and that is due to it’s source as well as the way the hair is processed. The terms used to describe hair denote where they are sourced - and you guessed it: this is the hair that grows on the underbelly of a yak. Yes, the animal.
While Yaki hair is the lowest in quality, it’s not one to be snuffed at entirely: Yaki hair is great for braiding styles, comes in a wide variety of natural and fashion shades, and is very amenable to heat styling. This is the workhorse of extension hair (see what I did there) and is typically highly processed hair and dyed with metallic salts and/or vegetable dyes like henna. Because of the lack of regulations in sourcing this material and its processing, Yaki is the equivalent of “mystery meat” hair - it’s great for a short time, typically lasting about 3-6 weeks.
Cost: $ (so low that we called this “throwaway hair” backstage)
Heat Styling: takes heat like a champ
Coloring: can be tinted darker, cannot be lightened or colored
Longevity: 3-6 weeks and will shed every damn day
2.) Keratin Fiber
Keratin extensions in particular, are made up of high-quality, soft, and silky hair strands crafted artificially using keratin protein, a man-made fiber. This kind of hair extension has actually been around for quite some time now. For the past few years, hairstylists have been using them to provide an instant and seamless solution to hair problems. Keratin hair extensions are specially designed to look and feel as natural as possible. They’re semi-permanent options that are extremely low-maintenance. You can use them continuously for up to 3-5 months, as long as you know how to care for them properly. This shouldn’t be a problem, as they usually only require minimal care. Some attachments methods include beads or tapes, and the safest methods keratin have halo bands, lessening the chances of damaging your natural hair.
Because keratin extensions are made with man-made fiber, chemical treatments aren’t recommended. In other words, you can’t dye or rebond keratin extensions, unless you want them to dry out. A plus side however, is their lifespan: keratin extensions can last up to 3-5 months. Styling your keratin hair using heat with curling rods or ironing rods is not a problem, just be careful when doing so as they tend to dry out more. Light, comfortable, and certainly undetectable, you can heat-style with temperatures up to 140 °C or 285°F.
Cost: $$
Heatstyling: LOW heat, typically only 1-2x before the fiber disintegrates
Coloring: what you buy is what you get, these cannot be altered at all
Longevity: 3-5 months (longer if not worn daily)
3.) Remy/Remi Human Hair
The 3 grades of human hair most popular are European, Indian, and Chinese. These are the grades, or type of hair. Remy simply means the direction of the cuticle of the hair, and can be any of these grades, or a combination of grades. Remy is hair that is collected and sorted from various sources with the root and tip traveling in the same direction to ensure the cuticle does not tangle or mat. The cuticles are not stripped and remain aligned in one direction. I like to think of it as shingles on a roof; they all have to go the same direction or the roof becomes compromised.
Remy hair is more expensive and looks more natural due to the tedious process that the hair goes through to not damage the cuticle. Usually marketed as “Virgin Hair” or hair that has been minimally processed to protect the integrity of the hair cuticle. Remy hair is smoother, shinier, and healthier in appearance than non-Remy. This hair feels amazing even after multiple times being washed. Most people can get a year or two of wear with Remy hair still looking great.
Non-remy is hair that does not have it’s roots aligned (Roots and tips not traveling in the same direction). Since the cuticle runs in both directions it requires a higher concentration of acid during processing, eventually resulting in hair with very low moisture content leading to dry straw-like hair. The hair cuticles are stripped usually from over processing in bulk, and the hair is thrown together which causes tangling. To mask this some manufacturers use heavy silicones to make the hair appear shiny and healthy, but as soon as you wash it the silicone comes off and the hair mattes into a huge mess. Some retailers will go so far as to guarantee the hair UNTIL you wash it.
Cost: $$$
Heatstyling: can be styled up to 450° with proper heat protection
Coloring: can be colored, tinted, and dyed but NOT lightened
Longevity: 1-2 Years or longer, with proper maintenance
Now that we’ve discussed the basics of what choices are out there in terms of hair quality, it should be said that I personally only work with certified, 100% Virgin Human Remy Hair sourced from Australia (European grade). If you’d like to explore your dream hair options with me, I invite you to book an extensions consultation where we can color match you and decide which method will fit your lifestyle the best!
Until then, Arrevderci Bella
-M